hear the army

Ah – the honeymoon. Never did I realize how much it was a necessity after a wedding – not just a luxury. We went to the airport a few hours early to spend the maximum amount of time possible with my family then boarded our flight. I remember waking up and eating a couple of times but I was mostly unconscious the entire 11 hours. It was a good thing since even the English movies on the flight to Tahiti were only in French or Japanese! French Polynesia is obviously not a major destination from Japan because we are able to stretch out in the middle aisle of seats that are virtually empty…ahhh. We are greeted in Papeete by women putting floral necklaces over our heads – though told if we are taking a flight to another island we have to leave them here anyway. The 3.5 hour layover is delayed another hour and we’re left wandering this tiny airport where the McDonalds doesn’t sell hamburgers (competition rule with another café in the airport), 15 minutes of internet access costs about $4., and you aren’t allowed to read the magazines at the bookstand (practically a national pastime in Japan!). After the 50 minute flight to Bora Bora it was all worth the wait. We check to make sure our bags made it from the plane to the boat on the other side and take in the sunset. The air was cool over the azure water as we circled the awe inspiring Mount Pahia to our resort across the lagoon. Another couple from CA, Janet and Richard, are coming from the resort we’ll return to after 3 nights in Bora Bora and are telling us how beautiful it was. At Le Meridien we are taken to an open lounge area and presented with fruit juice and our check-in information. Janet looks at us and says, “You’re going to be so disappointed when you get to Tahiti.” After a short tour of the resort we are led to our bungalow over the water. Champagne awaited us on the coffee table above a windowed floor…we could see fishes in the clear blue ocean below us!!! I immediately put on my suit and descended the stairs from our balcony into the water! The night was a bit cool but the second time in the water is always warmer than the air. We popped the champagne and filled the bath. It was truly paradise!! Soon we heard the beat of the traditional Polynesian dance music and headed back to the main resort for the show. It was too late to have dinner at the restaurant so the only other option was room service – the nearest stores or restaurants are a boat ride away!

Breakfast was announced with the blow of a shell horn and delivered via canoe to our balcony. Isseki fetched some snorkels and we spent the morning relaxing on the porch – or I did – Isseki, true to his sun sign, was hardly able to leave the water below us. The current was strong and we were the only ones who opted to swim from our bungalow – but it was fun swimming against the current until it exhausted me and letting it take me back to the bungalow after. Finally our tummies got the better of us and we headed to the café to have what we intended to be a light lunch and book my first scuba trip! We quickly realized that portion sizes here are not like Japan! Eels, blowfish, and tons of gorgeous tropical fish swam just next to our table that evening at the main resort restaurant. My meal was divine and unusual – chilled lasagna consisting of thinly sliced cucumbers layered with a ground cauliflower sauce and smoked salmon! The restaurant is populated mostly with French, Japanese, Spanish and American couples. I imagine Isseki and I to be the happiest couple there – is that egocentric of me?

The wind and the current died down for our scuba trip but the water was still a bit cloudy from the day before. After our room service breakfast (from the front door this time) We headed to the turtle feeding area first thing in the morning. In the resort’s private lagoon there’s cora, over 100 types of fish, and sea turtles! A long time ago one of the guests found an injured turtle and since then the resort started The Marine Turtle’s Protection Centre located in the lagoon! Every day the guests can help feed the turtles and learn more about them from the resident care giver. Another resident is always on time for the feeding too – a cute white cat who helped himself to the fish in the cooler in-between us grabbing some for the turtles! Thought it’s more private swimming in the water below our bungalow – we choose to check out the private lagoon and were really glad we did!! We were able to swim with some of the turtles and hundreds of fish there! We had to tear ourselves away though and head to the scuba boat.

I worried the entire boat ride that I wouldn’t be able to release the pressure in my head and have to call it quits or something but the tour guides decided it was us who would head in the water first! I had imagined the guide would have to hold onto me the whole time as I had heard some beginning dives are like that but thankfully he allowed us to swim freely! It was amazing!! We checked out all of the different things in the coral, played pass with an underwater toy, then rejoined the Korean couple who came on the trip with us. Our guide said we were naturals and should get certified! (seeing Open Water after our return to Japan has made me think twice about that)

Our last breakfast in Bora Bora was at the main restaurant and we had to be on the boat to the airport by 9am. It was really hard to watch the resort disappear behind us and head back to Papeete. We took a van through the highways of French Polynesia’s capital city to the Le Meridien there. The town reminded me a bit of Costa Rica’s towns and Isseki of Hawaii. Pretty but busy, run down, and touristy. Janet was right – though the resort in Tahiti was pretty it was nothing compared to Bora Bora. No drinks or tour upon arrival – just a key to our hotel room with a view of the lawn. Coming to terms with the fact that you have just left paradise and have to board the next shuttle into town to do souvenir shopping for about 30 people is a bit of a bummer but Papeete was a lively place and fun to look around. Isseki’s being bilingual did us absolutely no good here and our communication struggles brought us some interesting results. Like the dirty martini i tried to order from a waiter who spoke some English. He nodded his understanding enthusiasticly when I explained it contained “olive juice” and presented me with a martini mixed with “orange juice”!

Our last 2 days were spent souvenir shopping, exploring Papeete, visiting a museum on Polynesian culture, and relaxing by the white sand bottom pool. After 6 nights in French Polynesia we had to leave the hotel at 5:30am to fly home. It was an absolutely perfect honeymoon – gorgeous, private, relaxing, and romantic. Hopefully we’ll make it back there someday – maybe for a 25th anniversary or something?